Making Up & Finishing
After you spend many hours knitting, it is essential that you complete your project correctly. With these simple written instructions, I will detail how easy it is to achieve a beautifully finished garment or accessory.
Sewing in Ends
Once you have finished knitting your piece(s), sew in all loose ends. Thread a darning needle with yarn, weave needle along approximately 5 sts on wrong side of fabric, and pull thread through. Weave needle in opposite direction approximately 5 sts, pull thread through, and cut end of yarn.
Once you have completed your project I suggest you wet block your piece(s). When you wet-block a piece of knitting you wet it and coax it into its final shape.
To wet block your knitting you get it completely wet in a sink or basin of water. Have a large towel at the ready.
I strongly suggest that you use a small amount of gentle detergent to the water and swish out any remaining oil and dye that has not been washed out in the finishing process also any dirt and grime your piece may have picked up while you worked on it. Just be sure to give it several good rinses. Washing and rinsing your project will allow the cashmere fibres to ‘bloom’, this happens because the warmth and agitation during washing causes the fibre ends to pop loose from the yarn’s surface, producing a soft, downy surface texture.
Get as much water out of your project as you can without stretching or wringing it out.
You can press the piece against the empty sink basin to eliminate some of the water or press the piece between your palms to squeeze a little more water out of it, but don’t wring it out.
Without stretching the piece, spread it out on the towel and fold the ends of the towel over it; then gently and loosely roll up the towel to absorb more water.
You don’t want to get the piece too dry. It should be more wet than damp, just not dripping wet, when you lay it out to block. If you’re using blocking wires, unroll the piece and weave in the wires along the edges. Blocking wires come with instructions on how best to do this.
Gently lay your piece(s) out on the blocking board. If your board has a cover with a grid, line up the centerlines of your pieces with the grid.
Spread your piece(s) out to the correct dimensions without distorting the direction of the stitches.
Using the measurements given in the pattern and the schematic for reference and the grid as a guide, start at the center. Pin and smooth all pieces.
Use pins (preferably T-pins) and pin only a few places to keep the piece flat. If your project has a sculptural edging pin this into shape. Run your palms lightly over the piece to help keep everything smooth and even.
Sculpt your piece while it’s wet, then allow it to dry.
Drying may take a day or so, but be patient it will be worth the wait. Once your piece(s) are completely dry you can complete your project.
This method of sewing-up is worked on the right side of the fabric. Mattress stitch should be worked one stitch in from the edge of the work to give the best finish. With RS of work facing, lay the two pieces to be joined edge to edge. Insert needle from WS between edge st and second st. Take yarn to opposite piece, insert needle from front, pass the needle under two rows, bring it back through to the front and insert it again into the opposite piece at the point of its last exit.
Pin the pieces with right sides together. Insert needle into fabric at end, one stitch or row from edge, and take the needle around the two edges to secure them. Insert needle into fabric just behind where last stitch came out and make a short stitch. Re-insert needle where previous stitch started, and bring up needle to make a longer stitch. Re-insert needle where last stitch ended. Repeat to end, taking care to match any pattern features.